Hoa Lu, Vietnam: the first capital and its lantern old town, explained

Hoa Lu is the name of two different places in Ninh Binh, about two hours south of Hanoi. Hoa Lu Ancient Capital, at Truong Yen, is where Vietnam’s first independent kings ruled from 968 until the court moved to Thang Long in 1010; what stands there today are two temples rebuilt in the 17th century on the old palace ground. Hoa Lu Old Town is a lantern-lit quarter built around Ky Lan Lake in the city centre and opened in January 2022.

They are roughly 12 km apart. The temples are a daytime visit of an hour or two; the old town is free to walk and comes alive after dark, which is why the best Hoa Lu day ends in the second after starting in the first.

Two places that share one name

Most confusion about Hoa Lu starts with the name. Travel sites, hotel listings and even some tour titles use “Hoa Lu ancient town” for both places, and you only find out which one you are heading to when you arrive.

Hoa Lu Ancient CapitalHoa Lu Old Town
What it isTemple site on the ground of the 10th-century capitalA recreated quarter of timber houses and lanterns
WhereTruong Yen, about 12 km north-west of the city centreAround Ky Lan Lake, Ninh Binh city centre
AgeCapital from 968; temples rebuilt in the 17th centuryOpened January 2022
EntrySmall ticket at the gateFree to walk
Best timeMorning or the last two hours of daylightFrom dusk, when the lanterns are lit
Time needed60 to 90 minutesOne to two hours

The table is the short version; the difference matters most when you are choosing a tour, because many listings use the two names loosely.

What you actually see at the ancient capital

Nothing of the 10th-century palace stands above ground. The capital was a basin closed in by limestone hills, with earth walls built across the gaps, and the kings’ wooden halls have long gone. What you visit are two temples raised on the palace ground: one to King Dinh Tien Hoang, who unified the country and founded the kingdom of Dai Co Viet, and one to King Le Dai Hanh, who followed him.

The detail worth slowing down for is the pair of carved stone dragon beds at King Dinh’s temple, recognised as national treasures in 2017. Opposite the temple rises Ma Yen mountain, with King Dinh’s tomb on top.

What the old town is, and what it is not

Hoa Lu Old Town recreates the look of a Dai Viet quarter in timber, grey tile and red lanterns around Ky Lan Lake, with craft stalls, food stalls and small boats on the water. It is not old and does not claim to be: it is a new public space, busy with local families in the evening and quiet by day.

It is at its best from dusk. Stalls open in the afternoon, the lanterns come on as the light goes, and folk games and music start around seven.

How to fit both into one day

The order matters more than the distance. Temples first, while there is still light on the stone; old town second, as it lights up. From Tam Coc or Ninh Binh city that is an easy afternoon and evening. From Hanoi it makes a long day, which is why a Hanoi day that includes the old town ends late.

Where Trang An fits

The limestone hills around the ancient capital are the same hills that make up Trang An, listed by UNESCO in 2014 together with Hoa Lu. Visitors coming from Hanoi usually combine the two; visitors staying in Tam Coc can see Trang An on another morning.

Honest noteThe temples are small. If you are not interested in the story behind them, an hour at the ancient capital is plenty, and the old town on its own is a free evening you can reach by Grab without a guide or a tour.

Want the story as well as the scenery?

Our guides explain who the first kings were and time the day so you reach the old town just as the lanterns come on.

Hoa Lu Night Tour: Ancient Capital and Old Town by Lantern LightAbout 5.5 hoursSee the tour →Hoa Lu, Trang An & Mua Cave Private Day Tour from HanoiAbout 14 hoursSee the tour →

Questions about Hoa Lu

Is Hoa Lu the same as Hoa Lu Old Town?

No. Hoa Lu Ancient Capital is the historic temple site at Truong Yen; Hoa Lu Old Town is a lantern quarter opened in 2022 in the centre of Ninh Binh. They are about 12 km apart.

How far is Hoa Lu from Hanoi?

About 100 km, or roughly two hours by car on the expressway.

How long do you need at Hoa Lu?

Allow 60 to 90 minutes at the ancient capital and one to two hours in the old town in the evening.

Is Hoa Lu a UNESCO site?

Yes, as part of the Trang An Landscape Complex, inscribed in 2014, which covers the ancient capital as well as the surrounding limestone landscape.

Hoa Lu, then and now, in one private day

The temples in the late sun, the lanterns at dusk, and a car back to your hotel. Free cancellation up to 3 days before.

★Hoa Lu Night Tour: Ancient Capital and Old Town by Lantern LightThe kings’ temples in the late sun, then the old town as its lanterns come on. · About 5.5 hoursfrom$55/ person›Choose your group size · price is the group totalSolo traveller$130BOOK →2 guests$160BOOK →3 guests$190BOOK →4 guests$220BOOK →See the full tour page →
Hoa Lu, Trang An & Mua Cave Private Day Tour from HanoiThe Ninh Binh day that stays for the lanterns. · About 14 hoursfrom$134/ person›Choose your group size · price is the group totalSolo traveller$315BOOK →2 guests$385BOOK →3 guests$460BOOK →4 guests$535BOOK →See the full tour page →
Or ask first
WhatsApp · +84 368 938 081Tell us where you are staying and which day, and we will suggest the best start time.›

Distances, dates and opening arrangements were checked in September 2026.

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